The Gili Islands are becoming a more mainstream tourist destination than merely the backpacker mecca of yesteryear. Although officially the most popular tourist destination in Lombok, the islands are in fact less than two yours by ferry from Bali, and a popular attraction for tourists to Indonesia’s holiday hotspot.

The islands are characterised by an extremely relaxed vibe where laid-back beachfront shacks serve banana pancakes against the background of mellow reggae tunes. But the upmarket side to the archipelago’s tourism industry is developing fast, with elaborate seafood restaurants adding a luxurious edge to proceedings.

The beaches here are the main draw, and certainly superior to any to be found on Lombok or Bali. Plus without any motorised transport to disturb the peace and quiet, just a few horse-drawn carts bring tourists up and down the main drags. Other than just lazing on the sand, snorkelling and diving are the major draws here, although there are a few waves to catch for surfing fans.

Gili Trawangan (or Gili T) is the main backpacker destination with plenty of inexpensive beach huts and just one luxury resort. Although there are no dogs living on the island, there are around 800 cats. Gili Meno is the quietest and smallest and of the three islands with very simple accommodation options, while Gili Air is the nearest to the Indonesian mainland and the most densely populated.

As there are no airports on the Gili islands, visitors must take a ferry (around two hours) from Bali or alternatively fly to Mataram on the Lombok mainland and take the cheap 20-minute hop-over boat. And although people here are used to the medley of hedonistic backpackers partying on their beach, the local religion is Islam and so care should be taken not to cause offence with inappropriate dress or behaviour outside the beach areas.

Balinese massage is gentler than its Thai cousin. Skin kneading is lubricated with essential oils and there are a number of techniques that encourage oxygen flow around the body, rather than the stretching and lengthening of muscle tissue. More often than not, floral oils will be used and the massage can include a scalp and hair treatment that’s popular with women.

Bali massage techniques are especially beneficial for muscle strains and this is partly why Balinese massage professionals have found plenty of work outside of Indonesia in professional football teams and other sporting arenas. Bali massage techniques alleviate fluid and congestion around the joints, too, so anyone used to seeing a chiropractor will benefit from this kind of rub down.

Bali massage techniques heavily emphasise relaxation and the use of fragrant and essential oils can be overpowering for the first time visitor. A lot of local spas combine the massage with a water treatment that washes the oil from the skin but many people love the scent and feeling of fragrant oil on their skin and prefer to finish a treatment with an oil massage, or not combine the massage with another treatment.

Each part of Bali has developed its own brand of Balinese massage over the centuries. There are local methods in use in Sasak, Lombok and Bali itself. Regional and cultural techniques have influenced the various types of massage too. Balinese Boreh massage evolved from rice farmers and uses a ground up paste made from rice husks and spices. The Javanese Lulur Ritual is performed on brides in preparation for their marriage ceremonies.

Massage is ubiquitous in Bali. Plenty of visitors enjoy receiving a massage from the comfort of their towel or sarong while the very skilled women who ply the beaches of Kuta perform their trade right on the beach. It’s really great to have a massage while the surf crashes nearby and the sun hits the skin. Alternatively, all the major resorts and hotels will have on site health, beauty and wellness spas and these retreats can offer sumptuous luxury, for a price.

Bali abounds in health and wellness centres. There are luxurious massage and beauty spas in the upscale resorts, but many visitors swear by the skills of the nimble beach vendors who offer everything from massages to face masks and pedicures right on the sand for unbelievably reasonable prices.

Traditional Balinese spas specialise in local traditions like fragrant petal baths and hair cream treatments. More expensive outfits will operate courtesy shuttles between the spa and popular tourist destinations like Kuta, Legian, Denpasar and Nusa Dua. In most cases bookings are not required but the more upscale spas will usually take bookings several days in advance.

Full and half day treatments and wedding packages are available and these should be booked at least a day in advance. As with most everything in Bali, prices fluctuate wildly, with full day treatments at five star resorts in Nusa Dua and Ubud costing upwards of USD100. On the other end of the scale are the beach vendors who will give excellent full body and foot massages for just a few dollars.

This is a good option and a novelty for a lot of visitors to Bali since getting an expert scalp or foot massage, or both, while basking in the sun is both a real pleasure and an excellent photo opportunity. All the popular tourist beaches in Bali are over stocked with vendors and hawkers and most wear laminated identification cards that show their licenses and credentials.

Balinese massage is gentler than its Thai counterpart and uses oxygen flow and gentle stretching of muscles rather than pummeling and bending. There are numerous places that specialise in Swedish and Shiatsu massage too. The most renowned spa in Bali is the one at the Ritz Carlton in Nusa Dua and the cascading hill terraces of the resorts in Ubud are right on that venerable spa’s heels when it comes to range and quality of services.

There’s much more to Bali than drunken Aussies partying the night away at the pubs and bars of Kuta. Bali nightlife is quite diverse and there are plenty of quiet spots to hang out. There’s arts and sports clubs, film groups and even philosophical societies that hold regular meetings in various nooks and crannies of Bali so for every kind of visitor, nightlife in Bali has something to offer.

Of course, there’s nothing wrong with whooping it up with the beach party crowd and indeed that is one of the main reasons that a lot of people travel to Bali in the first place. The A Bar in Kuta is named after its primary alcohol supplier, Absolut Vodka and the clear spirit flows freely here at the exemplary Kuta nightclub. Not all nightlife options in Kuta are raucous and crowded – places like the A Bar a very elegant and similar to cocktail bars in Europe, North America or Australia.

Quieter Ubud is happy with its restaurant scene and art gallery openings. These form the double backbone of nightlife in Ubud with very little noise and festivities carrying on here far after midnight. However, there are plenty of options for night owls such as Barandi, a lively club that specialises in lychee martinis. Other places around Ubud will feature people hunched over chess boards and the ubiquitous sight of people examining and discussing art.

Over in Sanur, nightlife takes on a very international flavour with the Pergola club’s Thursday night salsa dancing classes and demonstrations. The Wine and Cigar Bar at Pala is just that – a huge wine list from all over the world as well as a good range of Cuban cigars and humidors. The Koki Pub is a slice of England in Southeast Asia with bar food, pool table, and sports cable television.

The nightlife in Nusa Dua has a James Bond feel with elegant cocktail bars like the Octopus Club on the third floor of the Hilton Hotel offering pricey drinks and live pianists. Quinn’s at the Sheraton Lagoon is known for its superb live music acts while the Salsa club at the Grand Hyatt has a glamourous deck overlooking the ocean.

By far the largest and busiest bar and pub complex in Bali is Kuta beach itself, where thousands gather for every sunset of the year, to down some bottles of Bintang, the local beer, and watch the sun go down. Apart from this open air ad-hoc wonder, there are plenty of Irish themed pubs, Australian-owned pubs and other recognisable pubs and bars in Bali. It goes without saying that Bali’s tourist central of Kuta is where most of the pubs and bars in Bali are to be found but there are some venues in Nusa Dua and Ubud.

Exile Bar and Funky Monkey are two of the most popular bars in Ubud, but visitors to Bali shouldn’t travel to this sleepy, artistic hill town expecting rocking nightlife. Most places close around midnight. Likewise, Nusa Dua bars shut around midnight though the cocktail bars and piano bars of some of the luxury resorts in Nusa Dua operate much later into the morning. The Trophy Pub is Nusa Dua’s most popular, and one of its oldest, pubs.

At Kuta, open air bars like Casablanca attract a mixed crowd of very drunk Aussies and jaded observers. The Bounty Shop is an enormous club in the shape and style of an old pirate boat, and it is packed to the gills on weekend nights. M-Bar-Go specialises in premier DJs and great dance music.  The venerable Mama’s in Kuta is one of the last places to close, so it fills up in the wee hours as other places empty out. Many people swear it is still rocking on after dawn, though the official hours state the opposite.

More elegant Kuta bars and pubs include Kori and TJs. the open street bar at Nero Bali and the nearby La Luciola and the Living Room attract an older, slightly better-heeled crowd and also contain their own acclaimed restaurants. Made’s Warning is a very popular mixed venue where the restaurant tables are packed away for dancing somewhere around 23:00 seven nights a week.

Pricey drinks are served to the beautiful people at Ku De Ta, Bali’s most exclusive nightclub. It is located opposite the Oberoi hotel and its decks and terraces afford visitors splendid sunset views. The Hulu Cafe is not the only gay bar in Bali but this is how it advertises itself and its outrageous drag shows which start at 23:00 seven nights a week. The nearby Bali Beach Shack provides stiff competition.

The evergreen Hard Rock Cafe looms large over the Kuta scene – literally as it is one of the only mutli-storey buildings in the area. The thumping rock music and huge crowds here dominate the aural scene for blocks, too, though there is a quieter section towards the rear of the Hard Rock Cafe in Kuta.

The range of dining options in Bali is truly immense. Visitors to Bali can dine out in some of the world’s most luxurious and expensive restaurants or pick up a delicious snack prepared in seconds from a street vendor for less than a dollar. Local delicacies abound and the cuisine of Bali is organic, healthy and inexpensive. Alternatively, anything from pizzas, Swedish pastries and sushi is available in Bali.

Naturally, eating at one of the restaurants in Bali’s innumerable luxury resorts is an experience that doesn’t come cheap. Diners can spend upwards of USD100 per person on a gut-busting seafood dinner with fine wines imported from all over the world. Service and decor at these places is top notch with many set on breathtaking seafront locations.

The best of these upscale dining options include the Bulgari, St. Regis and Conrad resorts. The wine lists alone at these places is guaranteed to impress even the most discerning well-heeled diners. Special events like monthly champagne and wine clubs take place at these venues as do gala conference dinners and wedding banquets.

Regularly voted the best restaurant in Bali is Kura Kura which is located within the Oberoi resort at Kuta. The Kayuputi restaurant is Nusa Dua’s top upscale pick, and it is located within the St. Regis resort. These choices are not for the budget traveller but they do present a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience for those who can afford it.

Mid range restaurants like the ones in resorts like the Hard Rock Cafe in Kuta serve casual food for pretty much the same prices that similar dishes would cost elsewhere in the world. The food at these places is designed to be tasty and satisfying and in many cases, to be taken away and eaten by the pool – think pizza slices or gourmet sandwiches.

For a lot of visitors to Bali, though, the most authentic and delicious food is found at small and modest local restaurants. Here, gado gado and avocado milkshakes are menu staples and two people can have a multi-course dinner with beer for just a few dollars. Any of the places in Kuta and Ubud will serve the same quality food, and have similar menu options.

The sizzling delicacies on offer by street vendors and beach hawkers are great value too. Beach bums can have pineapples carved into slices right at their spot on the sand, while at the night markets baby octopuses on skewers are just the start of the cheap and cheerful snacks on offer.

Bali’s guesthouses provide excellent budget accommodation. Also known as homes-stays, they are often within the grounds of local family houses and so there is a nice sense of authenticity and sincerity at these places. Also, costs are quite low and sometimes, meals are included.

Cold water showers and basic rooms are the norm – visitors should not expect huge luxury – but there are few complaints about the price for a night’s stay in a Bali guesthouse, which is rarely more than USD5.

Guesthouses in Bali are located all over the island. Even in the middle of busy Kuta and Legian, plenty of families open up spare rooms and spaces out back of the main house for visitors. Large groups are discouraged but couples are welcome. Some Bali guest houses are suitable for young families and the Balinese love children so an added bonus is the option of free babysitting!

However, visitors should bear in mind the old adage that you get what you pay for. While Bali guest houses are cheap and informal, and some can be quite memorable, many do not even come with ceiling fan let alone air conditioning and sometimes, a flat rubber mattress is what passes for a bed. Also, security can be an issue as though most families that operate guest houses are perfectly trustworthy, rooms are not always able to be locked.

The good aspects to Bali guest houses though include the fact that when every other hotel in town is full, it is almost always possible to secure a cheap room at a guest house. If a lower level of comfort and no protection from noise is not a problem, this kind of accommodation in Bali is really the way to go.

Also, some Bali guest houses are real gems and the families that run these places are very friendly and interactive. This makes for a memorable experience that some people would prefer over the anonymity of staying in a luxury five star hotel.

Because Bali has been a top international tourist destination for such a long time, the hotel scene here is very well established and in general, competitive. Like most things in Bali, range of price and comfort in hotels in Bali is very broad. There are some excellent bargains to be found in modest and quaint, but comfortable, local hotels run by families as well as happening backpacker joints. Anyone with money to spend will find their dollar goes very far at Bali’s luxury five star resorts which are expensive but offer every service and convenience imaginable.

The top end resorts of Bali are located mainly in Nusa Dua, which is Bali’s most upscale area. Most of the international hotel-resort chains have five and six star resorts here and though the beaches are not private, Nusa Dua’s location on the southern coast of Bali means that few tourists staying elsewhere on the island make a trip here for a day at the beach.

All the Nusa Dua resorts have their own health and wellness spas, private pools and fine dining restaurants. Many offer scuba diving and yachting trips, too and there are great wedding and honeymoon packages available at these places. Prices are high, but good value when compared to equivalent accommodations in Europe, Australia or North America.

There are several dozen luxury resorts that cascade down the misty slopes away from the town of Ubud. Though Ubud is not on the beach, many stay at the upscale accommodations here for the mountain air and sense of privacy and exclusivity. Most five star resorts in or near Ubud offer bungalow accommodations so there is truly a sense of peace and alone-ness.

Also in Ubud are some superb small hotels that offer visitors to Bali an authentic experience and a high level of comfort and friendliness. Even in peak season, bookings are not generally required and if a place is full, owners and managers will only be too happy to recommend nearby equivalent accommodations to unexpected arrivals.

Down at Kuta is where Bali’s backpacker scene comes into its own and so as a result there is no shortage of cheap motels that cater to young groups and also, plenty of backpacker dormitories and bunk style accommodations. Kuta is also where many of Bali’s best family-friendly hotels are located, and these places have supervised play areas and pools with trained life guards.

How do you make Nasi Goreng, the world’s most famous Indonesian dish, and one that is eaten by tens of thousands of tourists every week in Bali? Nasi Goreng is Balinese fried rice and you can serve it with other dishes such as satay meat or jazz it up with sweet chilli or tomato sauce.

The recipe is very easy to learn and you can modify it to your own tastes.

Nasi Goreng recipe

Ingredients:

• about 2 cups of rice
• 1 tbs oil
• 2 chicken breasts or meat of your choice, cut into 2cm pieces
• 3 or 4 bacon rashers, finely cut
• 5 spring onions, finely cut
• 2 crushed and finely diced cloves of garlic
• 1 carrot, diced
• 1 stick of celery (not a bunch), finely diced
• small handful of cooked, peeled prawns
• 1 cup shredded Chinese cabbage
• 2 cups bean sprouts
• 4 eggs
• 1 tbs soy sauce
• 2 tbs fried shallots
• 2 tbs kecap manis

Method:
1. Cook rice as normal then spread in 2 baking trays and leave to cool for two hours.
2. Heat half the oil in a wok and stir fry the chicken, then the bacon. Both should be well browned. Set aside.
3. Add remaining oil and stir fry the garlic, spring onions, carrots, celery and prawns.
4. Add the cooked bacon and chicken with the cabbage and stiry fry all together then add the rice, bean sprouts, most of the shallots, the kecap manis and the soy sauce. Heat and stir through then place in a big bowl.
5. Fry the eggs.
6. Serve the nasi goreng in bowls and top each serving with a fried egg and a sprinkling of the shallots.

Serves 4

High above the hustle and bustle of Kuta and Seminyak are the mist enshrouded spa resorts of Ubud. These wonderful retreats are the main attraction in Bali for many visitors, and they are often heavily booked all year round. It’s a testament to the tranquility and sophisticated sense of sedation of Ubud that despite their popularity, these resorts offer guests a sense of quiet isolation and gentle relaxation.

Some of Ubud’s most popular spa resorts include Milano, near the Monkey Forest. This Ubud retreat is famous for its manicures and pedicures and welcomes many day visitors. The Maya Ubud Resort and Spa offers around three dozen palatial guest rooms with horizon edge lap pool and superior herbal massages. For a splurge, take one of the 20 villas at the Kupu Kupu Barong, possibly Ubud’s most expensive spa resort and certainly one of its fanciest. This marvelous and world famous place treats visitors like royalty and the villas are separate enough to give a sense of being on private holiday in a treehouse, though the sunken marble baths may give the game away. Less deluxe but happily indulgent is the Verona Spa, also near the monkey forest. Famous for its head massages and herbal hair treatments (with complimentary scalp massage) this Ubud resort is also a popular choice of day trippers, passing through town. The Padma Hastaa Spa offers afternoon-long milk baths and all kinds of herbal skin care treatments.

The Ubud Sari Health Resort offers western levels of luxury and service over traditional Balinese health treatments like massage and aromatherapy with hot rocks.

At one of these places, you may forget you’re in Bali all together.