The Gili Islands are becoming a more mainstream tourist destination than merely the backpacker mecca of yesteryear. Although officially the most popular tourist destination in Lombok, the islands are in fact less than two yours by ferry from Bali, and a popular attraction for tourists to Indonesia’s holiday hotspot.

The islands are characterised by an extremely relaxed vibe where laid-back beachfront shacks serve banana pancakes against the background of mellow reggae tunes. But the upmarket side to the archipelago’s tourism industry is developing fast, with elaborate seafood restaurants adding a luxurious edge to proceedings.

The beaches here are the main draw, and certainly superior to any to be found on Lombok or Bali. Plus without any motorised transport to disturb the peace and quiet, just a few horse-drawn carts bring tourists up and down the main drags. Other than just lazing on the sand, snorkelling and diving are the major draws here, although there are a few waves to catch for surfing fans.

Gili Trawangan (or Gili T) is the main backpacker destination with plenty of inexpensive beach huts and just one luxury resort. Although there are no dogs living on the island, there are around 800 cats. Gili Meno is the quietest and smallest and of the three islands with very simple accommodation options, while Gili Air is the nearest to the Indonesian mainland and the most densely populated.

As there are no airports on the Gili islands, visitors must take a ferry (around two hours) from Bali or alternatively fly to Mataram on the Lombok mainland and take the cheap 20-minute hop-over boat. And although people here are used to the medley of hedonistic backpackers partying on their beach, the local religion is Islam and so care should be taken not to cause offence with inappropriate dress or behaviour outside the beach areas.

The Balinese capital of Denpasar is not the world’s most exhilarating city. It doesn’t really hold up to other Southeast Asian capitals like Jakarta or Bangkok and this is perfectly understandable considering that it isn’t a national capital and also that it has a very small population of just under half a million people. Those expecting something along the lines of Manila or even Pnomh Penh may be disappointed in the relatively underwhelming surrounds of Denpasar. Not that many take time to notice considering that the only reason many visitors to Bali even pass through Denpasar at all is to come in or out of the island’s international airport. This isn’t to say, however, that Denpasar is without attractions at all.

The main international airport of Bali is here at Denpasar and this airport is called Ngurah Rai airport. Kuta and Legian are just a little over ten minutes drive from the terminals.

Denpasar was, historically, the ancient capital of Badung until it was taken over by the Portuguese triggering what is called in Bali a puputang which is a mass suicide to avoid being captured or killed by an invading enemy. Today a plaza stands on the site of the former royal palace and a statue commemorating the puputang is right there in the centre of this plaza.

Denpasar’s central market thrives in the morning. Follow the crowds to grab fresh produce, silks and arts and crafts. The locals of Denpasar are known for their friendliness. For a more formal shopping experience try the Duta Silk store which is known throughout Indonesia for its extremely competitive prices.

The Bali Museum is an outstanding collection of Hindu and Balinese history, art and culture. All visitors to Bali should take some time to see this great museum. Temples of note include Pasar Badang, Pur Maospahit and the steel towers of Pura Jagatnata. Try also the palaces of Pemekutan and Satria.